Patagonia, Part 2
Itinerary
We did everything by bus; by ferry to Chiloé island
- Puerto Natales – El Calafate
- El Calafate – El Chalten
- El Chalten – Chili-Chico – Puerto Rio Tranquillo (Marble Caves)
- Puerto Rio Tranquillo – Coyhaique
- Coyhaique – El Chaiten
- Ferry El Chaiten – Quellon – Castro
- Castro – Puerto Montt
- Puerto Montt – Puerto Varas
Budget
- € 42 per person in Chili
- € 33 per person in Argentina
- When? end of April 2019 – beginning of May
Useful information at the end of the article.
Perito Moreno Glacier (El Calafate)
After a short rest after a 5-day hike in Torres del Paine Park (Chile), we went to explore the Argentinean part of Patagonia. From Puerto Natales, we took a direct bus to El Calafate, Argentina, a ride of only 5 hours and a very fast and efficient border. Although the station did not seem very joyful to us (see 360 photo below), the city was much cozier, and we even stayed there longer than planned.
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
The most important attraction of the city is the Perito Moreno Glacier, which is located in the Los Glaciales National Park. In addition to it, there are many more glaciers in the park, but they can only be reached by boat. This ice plateau is the third largest reservoir of fresh water in the world!
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
There was a very strong and cold wind in the park, but the view is worth it! And if you are patient, you can see the ice calving away from the glacier and dropping blocks into the water.
On the way back, not far from the city, we saw a pack of flamingos again and asked the driver to stop. It turns out that they are getting pink because their main diet is red underwater larvae.
El Chalten city
Then we went to the town of El Chalten, a small cozy town surrounded by mountains. It is a paradise for hikers, its most important peak, Fitz Roy, is simply unrealistically beautiful!
The city itself is very cozy in season, but dies out in winter. When we were there, at the end of April, the restaurants were already boarding up the windows for winter, and finding a place to eat was not so easy. Besides, leaving the city was also a problem. When we went to buy tickets in the direction of Bariloche (further north), it turned out that the bus goes only once every 2 days, and for the next 4 days were all fully booked. When we realized we were stuck for a long time, we decided to find a place with a kitchen and good heating (which is rare for Patagonia!) and enjoyed 5 days of our temporary home comfort.
Unlike Torres del Paine (Chile), the entrance to the El Chalten National Park is free and there is nothing to pay for. All tracks near the city can be easily passed in a day, but for those wishing to stay with tents in the park, there are special (also free), places.
We were pretty tired after Chilean Patagonia so we decided to limit ourselves to daytime visits here.
Peak Fitz Roy (3,405m)
On the first day we went on a hike to the Laguna de los Tres, with a spectacular view of the top of Mount Fitz Roy. We were warned at the entrance that the weather could be very windy and changeable in the mountains, but we were lucky again, and the sun was out all day (although it was -2 in the morning and there was snow at the top).
This place has surpassed all our expectations, and stands confidently at the place number 1 of all the mountains that we have seen!!!!! and, I think, it may well remain in this place for a long time.
In Asia, there were fewer drone bans 🙁 
it’s getting lighter, getting warmer)) 
This mouse came running to us all by its own. 
The frost on the grass shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow in the sun 
As the sun rises, it becomes much warmer and more enjoyable to walk, and the view of the mountain appears almost on the first km of the way. Therefore, those who cannot or do not want to climb too far or too high can still enjoy stunning views!
The return trip to the lake is 25 km (+ distance from the city to the beginning of the trek, maximum 2 km, because the city is small). But the route is mostly easy, and only the last 2 km of the way you need to climb a mountain. In addition, in April this road is covered with ice, so we climbed very slowly and carefully. But our effort was generously rewarded 🙂
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
Lago Torre
On the second day we went to Lago Torre (not to be confused with Laguna Toro, it’s in the other side!). This route is much faster and easier than the previous one – 22 km, and especially without climbing. The lake was formed by the glacier, which can be seen at the end of the route, as well as the top of the Cerro Torre mountain chain (3 102m).
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
the usual thing in town… 
The ice froze very strangely 
A group of three peaks, Cerro Torre. 
We fed a free bird 
A view after a walk into town 
Wild parrots! 
Spectacular sunset
“Familia Patagonia”
Patagonia brings us closer! During our trip along the famous road number 7, the so-called carratera austral, we met wonderful people, and even managed to unite in a week of travel in a multinational Patagonian family! 🙂 José – Spain! Julia – Australia! Camille – France! Wout – Belgium! And of course I represented Russia!
Despite the differences in age, culture and language, it was very easy and comfortable for us to travel together, we had a lot of fun and unforgettable memories. We enriched each other culturally and remained good friends. Until we meet again, Familia Patagonia! ?
Making sandwiches at the bus station 
The rainworm 
Wout celebrates his birthday!? 
We lost Jose((!) 
There’s Jose! 
Carretera Austral – Marble Caves
Carretera Austral is the name of the Chilean highway number 7, some of the most rugged terrain in Chile before this road appeared. Construction of the highway began in 1976 under the dictatorship of Augusto Pinochet in order to connect a number of remote communities.
This is one of the most ambitious infrastructure projects developed in Chile during the 20th century. The motorway runs south about 1240 kilometers from Puerto Monte to Villa O’Higgins, passing through rural Patagonia. These areas are sparsely populated and are only gaining popularity with adventurous tourists like us!
One of the attractions that can be found on this road is the marble caves near the small town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo. Despite the terrible weather, stormy winds and rain, we were able to visit the caves, and even without the sun they were unusually colorful! In good weather, you can swim on them not only on a boat, but also on a kayak.
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
The rock on the side resembles a dog’s profile 
The locals call this rock
Marble Cathedral
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
Volcano
There are many national parks, glaciers, mountains and waterfalls along the Carretera Austral, but since we got there out of season, it rained almost continuously, so we drove along the road without stopping. Only at the end of the trip, at the crossing to the island of Chiloé, in the city of Chaiten we got some sun sun and we hurried to climb the active volcano of the same name, near the city.
The volcano was not active for 9400-9500 years, until a major eruption began in May 2008, the plume reached 30 km in height! So on the way we saw a lot of burned trees.
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
Chiloé Island
Isla de Chiloé is the second largest island in Chile, and is considered a favourite vacation destination for Chileans. The island has a beautiful nature and coastline, as well as many different birds, animals and marine life, from penguins to whales!
The picture below is a 360 photo, click and drag to look around, scroll to zoom!
To the island from the city of Chaiten 
Whales spotted!!
in Chile, like in all of Latin America, there’s a lot of stray dogs,
and this one was so beautiful and well-groomed!
We had no luck with the weather, but the main thing is to have good company! ?
The colorful city of Castro 
Useful information
Course
1 ruble = about 10 Chilean pesos
1 ruble = about 50 Argentinean pesos
Housing
- In El Calafate – Bla Guesthouse (very good!)
- In El Chalten – hostel Los Nires
- In El Chalten – Apart Gillaumet (super!) – like home, but more expensive.
- It seems that everywhere you can find/or negotiate for 10 000 per person
- Cabanas (for 4-5 person) – 10 000 per day per person
- double room 20 000 Chilean pesos
Transport
- Bus El Calafate – Perito Moreno – 1h30 – 800 ar$ pp
- Bus El Calafate – El Chalten – 3h30 – 800 ar$ pp
- Bus El Chalten – Los Antiguos – 11 h – 2 090ar$ pp
- Mini bus Los Antiguos – Chile Chico (Chili) – 30 min – 200 ar$ pp
- НИЖЕ ВСЕ В ЧИЛИЙСКИХ ПЕСО
- Mini bus Chile Chico – Puerto Rio Tranquillo (Chili) – 4 h – 17000pp
- Bus Puerto Rio Tranquillo – Coyhaique – 4 h – 12000 pp
- Bus Coyhaique – La Junta – 4 h – 22000 pp
- Bus La Junta – El Chaiten – 2h30 – 10000 pp
- Ferry El Chaiten – Quellon (Chiloe island) – 2 h – 15000 pp
- Bus Quellon – Castro (Chiloe island) – 1 h –2000 pp
- Bus Castro – Puerto Montt – 3 h – 7500 pp
Sightseeings
- Fitz Roy National Park and others – free of charge
- Perito Moreno – bus to the park from the station 800 Arg.peso + entrance to the park 200 pesos
- Marble caves, boat – 10 thousand Chilean pesos per person
- El Chaiten volcano – 5000 Chilean pesos (transport)
- Bus from Castro to the national park Tepuhueico – Muelle de las Almas – 2 h – 7000 pp